What New Construction Final Inspections Found

Truss repair in the attic of Home B

In short: Final inspections of 10 brand-new Charlotte-area homes found 103 repair items, about 10 per home. See the photos and why to inspect before closing.

📅 October 30, 2026  •  ⏱️ 8 min read

In final inspections of 10 brand-new homes, our inspectors documented 103 items that needed repair or further evaluation, about 10 per home. Even the cleanest home had 6. Every one was new construction, inspected before the buyer moved in.

10 brand-new homes inspected103 repair findings documented8 of 10 had siding, stone or trim installed improperly

Why inspect a brand-new home before closing

Passing the required local inspections means a home met minimum code at the stages the county checked. It isn’t a top-to-bottom review of workmanship, and it isn’t done for you. A final inspection is. It gives you a written, photo-documented list to hand the builder before the final walk-through, while the builder’s crews are still on site and you still have the most leverage.

Each inspection followed the NC Home Inspector Licensure Board Standards of Practice. Client names and street addresses have been left out.

The homes

Ten new-construction homes in nine towns we serve, from townhomes to a single-story ranch.

HomeLocationStyleRepair findings
Home AStatesville, NCTwo-story12
Home BSalisbury, NCRanch10
Home CSherrills Ford, NCTwo-story16
Home DConcord, NCTwo-story12
Home ETroutman, NCTwo-story townhome10
Home FHarmony, NCTwo-story14
Home GCharlotte, NCTwo-story6
Home HCharlotte, NCTownhome7
Home IMooresville, NCTwo-story10
Home JHuntersville, NCTownhome6

By the numbers

Eight of ten new homes had siding, stone or trim installed improperly

Number of homes (out of 10) where each issue was found

Number of homes, out of ten, where each issue was found
Source: AHI new construction final inspection reports. Summary findings only.

Exterior cladding was the most common problem by far. Truss, shingle, plumbing and drainage problems each turned up in half the homes.

The most significant findings

Roof trusses repaired with no engineer’s approval (5 of 10 homes)

In Homes B, D, E and J, trusses had been damaged during or before installation and patched on site, with no engineer’s letter approving the repair. Home A had buckled, damaged gusset plates at a wall. Trusses hold up the roof, so any repair should follow a method from the truss manufacturer or a licensed structural engineer, with a stamped letter. Before closing is the easiest time to get that letter.

Truss repaired on site with added lumber and no engineer's letter in the attic of Home J
Home J: a truss repaired on site, with no engineer’s letter.
Truss repair in the attic of Home B
Home B: another field repair to a truss.

Siding, stone and trim installed improperly (8 of 10 homes)

Five homes had fiber cement siding installed against the manufacturer’s guidelines: overdriven nails, damaged boards, missing expansion gaps and buckling. At Home B, the stone veneer had damaged or missing mortar, and mortar was blocking the weep screed that lets water drain out from behind the stone. Home E also had loose stone mortar. Home F had buckled vinyl siding and an unfinished brick skirt. Overdriven nails on exterior trim showed up in five homes.

Gapped butt joint in fiber cement siding on Home C
Home C: a gapped joint in the fiber cement siding.
Damaged and misaligned fiber cement siding board on Home D
Home D: a damaged siding board.
Offset, buckled butt joint in fiber cement siding on Home C
Home C: siding boards that don’t line up at a joint.
Cracked fiber cement siding board on Home D
Home D: a cracked siding board.
Overdriven nails in fiber cement siding on Home E
Home E: overdriven nails in the siding face.
Open, unsealed joint in the trim below a window on Home C
Home C: an open, unsealed trim joint below a window.
Cracked and missing mortar at the stone veneer cap on Home B
Home B: cracked and missing mortar at the stone veneer.

Electrical defects in the main panel (Homes A and D)

In Home D, three neutral wires in the main panel had damaged insulation, leaving bare copper exposed. In Home A, a neutral wire was installed incorrectly in the panel. Home B had a wire above the garage attic opening that wasn’t secured. We treat electrical defects as safety hazards until a licensed electrician corrects them.

Close-up of a neutral wire in the Home D main panel with damaged insulation and exposed copper
Home D: a neutral wire with damaged insulation and exposed copper in the main panel.

Missing and poorly sealed shingles (5 of 10 homes)

Home H was missing shingles on the lower rear roof, leaving bare plywood exposed, plus damaged cap shingles and shingles lifted by nail pops. Homes C, E, F and J had lifting, poorly bonded or damaged shingles. Shingles that haven’t sealed down are more prone to wind damage and leaks.

Missing shingles exposing bare roof plywood on Home H
Home H: missing shingles leaving the roof plywood exposed.
Torn and damaged shingles where the roof meets a wall on Home H
Home H: torn and damaged shingles where the roof meets a wall.
Shingles lifted by nail pops across the roof of Home H
Home H: shingles lifted by nail pops.
Shingles beginning to lift along a roof valley on Home C
Home C: shingles beginning to lift.
Poorly bonded, lifted shingles on the rear roof of Home J
Home J: poorly bonded shingles lifting on the rear roof.

Shower and plumbing water problems (5 of 10 homes)

Home C’s primary shower had missing grout and caulk, with water already running outside the shower. In Homes B and I, the weep holes that let water drain from behind the shower walls had been sealed shut. Homes A and G had leaking drain lines under a bathroom sink.

Missing grout at the base of the tile shower in Home C
Home C: missing grout at the base of the tile shower.
Shower weep holes sealed shut with caulk in Home B
Home B: shower weep holes sealed shut.

Heating and cooling not working as intended (4 of 10 homes)

At Home H, the AC compressor short-cycled and the system wasn’t cooling enough. At Home F, a failed damper meant no air reached the second floor. At Home E, three first-floor vents weren’t running off the first-floor zone. Home A’s system wasn’t cooling within the normal 14–22°F range.

Safety items (Homes A, C and H)

  • Home A: the fire separation between the garage and the house was compromised, and the stair rail was loose at the top.
  • Home C: the water heater in the garage had no barrier to protect it from a car.
  • Home H: the third-floor furnace closet had no source of combustion air, which can lead to carbon monoxide.
Fire separation breached between the electrical outlet and garage door opener brackets in Home A
Home A: the fire separation breached between the electrical outlet and the garage door opener brackets.
Water heater in the garage of Home C with no vehicle barrier
Home C: a garage water heater with no vehicle barrier.

Missing insulation (Home H)

Batt insulation was missing in areas of the attic, leaving framing exposed. Thermal imaging also showed missing or poorly installed insulation in the attic and in a rear bonus room wall. Gaps like these raise heating and cooling costs from day one.

Attic area in Home H with batt insulation missing and framing exposed
Home H: missing batt insulation in the attic.
Thermal image of the ceiling in Home H showing warm spots where insulation is missing
Home H: thermal imaging showing warm spots where insulation is missing.

Foundation damage (Home D)

The concrete foundation at the garage and the rear of the house had damage and voids. Openings like these can let pests get in under the framing.

Void in the concrete foundation below the siding at the rear of Home D
Home D: a void in the foundation at the rear of the house.
Damaged concrete foundation along the base of the garage wall in Home D
Home D: damaged foundation along the garage wall.

Gas line issues (Homes A and C)

In Home A, a copper gas line in the attic wasn’t set into its supports. That lets the line flex and puts stress on the connections, which can lead to leaks. In Home C, the gas connections at the meter were already starting to rust.

Copper gas line in the attic of Home A not set into its supports
Home A: a copper gas line in the attic not set into its supports.
Rusting gas connections at the meter on Home C
Home C: rust starting on the gas connections at the meter.

Fascia damage (Homes C and D)

On both homes, the metal fascia wrap at the roof edge was cut too short or bent, leaving roof sheathing exposed. That opens a path for water and pests into the roof edge.

Metal fascia wrap cut short at a gable corner on Home C
Home C: fascia wrap cut short at the roof edge.
Bent, cut-short metal fascia wrap on Home D
Home D: damaged fascia wrap exposing the roof sheathing.

Patterns across all ten homes

Beyond the big items, the same kinds of finish-out problems showed up again and again:

  • Doors and windows. Six homes had windows that bound or wouldn’t stay open, doors that showed daylight or wouldn’t latch, a failed window seal, or a sliding door that stuck, wouldn’t lock or had a damaged drain cover.
  • Appliances and cabinets. Six homes had a dishwasher, microwave, oven drawer or disposal that wasn’t installed right or didn’t work, or cabinet drawers that stuck or fell.
  • Water draining toward the house. Five homes had poor grading, a driveway or patio sloped toward the house, loose downspouts, or gutters with the wrong slope.
  • Subfloors. Three homes had subfloors that popped, creaked or sagged when walked on. Two had buckling floating floors.
Poorly graded yard sloping toward the rear of Home B
Home B: grading at the rear that doesn’t carry water away from the house.

These are easiest to get fixed while the builder’s crews are still on site. After closing, each one becomes a warranty request, or a repair you pay for.

What this means for buyers

A brand-new home isn’t a defect-free home. Every home in this study had at least six items worth raising with the builder, and each buyer got a photo-documented report to work from before closing.

  • Schedule before your final walk-through. That gives you a written list to walk through with the builder, instead of trying to spot problems on the day.
  • Get it in writing. For truss repairs, electrical defects and HVAC problems, ask for an engineer’s letter or a licensed contractor’s written statement, not just a verbal “it’s fine.”
  • Have the repairs checked. A re-inspection confirms the work was actually done right before you sign.
  • Come back at month 11. Some problems only show up after a few seasons. A 1-year builder warranty inspection catches them while they’re still covered.

Buying a new-construction home?

Book your new construction inspection before the final walk-through.

Or call 866-356-2363

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